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amelia woolums, antibiotics, antibiotic resistance, ncba

Nice to Meat Ya: Bob Boliantz

Bob Boliantz sits behind his desk leafing through some of his father’s old business receipts from 1943, stopping on one in particular.

“Eight head of cattle – $893 … total,” he laughs. “Obviously, my father was a much better buyer than I am.”

Emil Boliantz had a knack for picking the right cattle and knowing which farmers he could count on to supply his Mansfield, Ohio, meat packing plant with high-quality beef. The son of butcher shop owners, Emil grew up in the meat business, turning a youth’s worth of knowledge into a successful meat packing venture before passing the trade to his son, Bob.

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For generations, the Boliantz family has strived to bring quality beef to markets close to home.

Today, although the era of purchasing a steer for just over $100 has long since passed, many of the same practices employed by his senior are still in place at Bob Boliantz’s plant, E.R. Boliantz Co., located less than 20 miles from his father’s, in Ashland.

“It’s about relationships,” Bob says. “If you build relationships with the farmers and with the right people who can help them, you’re going to have the right kind of cattle to work with.”

Like his father, Bob has made a career of hand-selecting cattle and building a reputation for quality. He works with a slew of farmers in and around Northeast Ohio whom he knows raise cattle to hit a high-quality end point – including a good amount that qualify for both the Certified Angus Beef ® brand and Certified Angus Beef ® brand Prime.

DSC_0149“He does a heck of a job,” says Russ Chapman, a retired Cargill employee who now works for Boliantz selling beef. “He doesn’t like to toot his own horn, but he does a heck of a job picking the cattle and he has a great relationship with the farmers.”

Bob has played a major role in the quality beef movement in Ohio – and not only from a processing perspective.

When he saw a greater need to increase the number of quality-fed cattle, he began working with Dr. Francis Fluharty from The Ohio State University. Together, the two offered classes for farmers and ranchers to teach them better feeding practices so their cattle would grade out higher.

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Bob works with cattlemen to supply quality beef – particularly the Certified Angus Beef ® brand and Certified Angus Beef ® brand Prime.

The results? It’s safe to say the proof is in the pudding.

Boliantz’s beef can be found in a host of retail stores around Ohio, including the source of 15-store Buehler’s Fresh Foods’ “Proudly Raised in Ohio Certified Angus Beef ® brand” program.

Perhaps more visibly, it’s Boliantz beef that’s served to guests at the critically-acclaimed, James Beard award-nominated Greenhouse Tavern in downtown Cleveland, where the emphasis on fresh and local is melded with trendy and edgy food presentations by Chef Jonathon Sawyer.

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Bob reminisces over his father’s business receipts from 1943.

In a day and age where most beef comes from large-scale packing plants, Bob still does it the old-fashioned way. His team of butchers harvest the beef from start-to-finish, while his sales people do their job to ensure that the well-marbled hunks of meat have a home.

“Right now our biggest problem is cooler space,” Boliantz says. “We can handle more cattle than we do now, but we’ve got to keep it moving. Back in the day, it was no big deal because you could sell it by the whole carcass. Today, though, everybody buys boxed beef, and that takes up a lot more square footage.”

Though markets, trends and consumer preferences may change, one thing that isn’t going away is demand for great beef. There’s something to be said for the tried and true.

And Bob Boliantz is living proof that, sometimes, the old methods are still the best methods.

PS–To catch up on all the other “unsung heroes” we’ve covered this month, check out these links:

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Yum: That buttery, beef-fat flavor

By Miranda Reiman

October 6, 2011

If meat scientist Daryl Tatum goes out for a “knock-your-socks-off” beef dinner, it’s going to include high levels of marbling.

Given the Colorado State University professor’s expertise, he’d probably have done that anyway, but new research by his team points out the links between key sensory attributes and quality grades.

“Marbling has kind of gotten a bum rap from a lot of people saying it really doesn’t predict much,” Tatum says. “But across the full range, it has predicative capabilities. When you can measure it precisely, it does a really good job.”

The recent work, funded by The Beef Checkoff and commissioned by the industry’s Joint Product Enhancement Committee, looked at camera-based quality grade calls and their correlation to eating experience.

“What we found was a really strong relationship between marbling and sensory properties in particular,” Tatum says.

A trained panel evaluated steaks from carcasses that were camera graded into seven different marbling scores, ranging from traces to moderately abundant, or USDA Standard to Prime. Rather than assign positive or negative ratings, panelists were asked to quantify the presence of specific flavors such as “meaty, brothy” or other descriptors. They also gave ratings on tenderness, juiciness and the overall sensory experience.

“With a trained panel, you’re trying to use them as a research instrument,” Tatum explains.

Tenderness and “buttery, beef-fat” flavor accounted for 91% of the variation in overall sensory experience; in turn, 40% of tenderness variation and 71% of variation in that desirable flavor was due to marbling score.

Tatum says that buttery flavor was not much of a factor at the lower end of the marbling range. “But it increased stepwise all the up to Prime,” he says. “It really rose pretty quickly.” Ratings for tenderness and overall eating experience rode the same escalator.

In fact, this research found marbling’s contribution to those factors was much higher than shown by work from a few decades ago.

“The relationships are stronger, and we think a lot of that is because the camera is much more consistent in calling marbling,” Tatum says. “If you improve the precision of the measurement, the predication capabilities go up. Marbling is a very, very good predictor of eating quality.”

Cargill is using camera-called marbling scores in all of its beef plants. Glen Dolezal, assistant vice president of business development and field sales leader for the company, says their experiences have been positive.

“The cameras have been a big win, a big success story,” he says. “Our customers have been very pleased with the consistency they’re getting box to box, based on marbling levels and other traits.”

He says producers benefit from those reliable calls, too, as they are trying to make genetic and management changes based on carcass data.

“Subjective grading was way too variable and somewhat of a gamble on, ‘which grader did you draw?’ Since the cameras, that has leveled out quite well,” Dolezal says.

Tatum says the Colorado research shows “the beef trade has it figured out. Prime is its own category and the upper two-thirds of Choice is another category by itself.”

The probability of a positive eating experience within the Prime grade is 98% to 99%. With modest and moderate amounts of marbling, the threshold for many premium Choice brands, the chance of a good eating experience is 82% to 88%.

That’s in stark contrast to low Choice at 62% or Select at 29%.

“When you get to that premium Choice zone, there’s not much wrong with the beef in most people’s opinion,” Tatum says. “It’s more of an insurance policy than anything. You’re not going to get a junk piece of meat once you get up at those levels.”

The Certified Angus Beef ® (CAB ®) brand includes selections from premium Choice and Prime.

“If you compare the lower part of Choice with premium Choice, there’s a pretty substantial difference in performance,” Tatum says.

Research like this is valuable to the industry, because it shows beef is sorted based on solid information. For consumers, the application is even more direct.

“If you’re going out for that occasion where you’re wanting to treat yourself, it’s pretty important to have marbling in there,” he says. “It really performs on all levels when you do.”

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Excellent and getting better

The Angus world wonders, how good can these cattle get?

 

by Steve Suther

It’s fun to hit the target. Osborn Farms, Savannah, Mo., repeated its 2010 achievement with even better numbers as the Certified Angus Beef LLC (CAB) 2011 Quality Focus Award winner for partner yards with less than 15,000-head capacity.

This is just a 600-head yard that enrolled 535 head with CAB last year, but the point is 90% of those were accepted for the Certified Angus Beef ® (CAB®) brand, including 28% CAB Prime.

An hour spent talking shop with owner-manager John Osborn and his longtime consultant and cattle partner Pete Mitts is like an hour on the Blue Collar Comedy Tour. Many of the jokes are inside, obscure, personal insults or physiological, but you catch the drift and join in the grins.

In reference to the CAB acceptance, Osborn will deadpan, “Is that good?” Mitts completes the thought, “Because we know we can do better.”

There’s evidence to support that. If you followed the AngusSource® Carcass Challenge last year, you might recall their champion pen of 42 heifers went 100% CAB and 55% Prime. The September 2010 harvest date fit the contest year for this June-through-May annual CAB award, too.

Still, the award wasn’t automatic or easy. This is the fourth consecutive year that a Missourian won the category, and the top three contenders nationwide were in Missouri this time as well.

The other two were Circle A Feedlot, Huntsville, Mo., and Performance Blenders, Jackson, Mo., and depending on the week, each of them spent time in the top spot. The contest was not decided until the last few weeks of May.

All three feature cattle of known genetics.

Osborn and Mitts have proven that their already excellent cattle will keep getting better. They all trace back to bulls from Green Garden Angus, Lorraine, Kan., genetics stacked in cow families backed by Mitts’ no-nonsense records and the duo’s program of low-stress management.

That’s low stress on the cattle, they would point out. Stress for the cattlemen is sometimes unavoidable in these days of volatile markets.

They find time to get away from it all sometimes. Mitts and his wife Lois have a fishing boat, and sometimes they travel to the Missouri lake country or down to his western Oklahoma home county where son Miles now works at another CAB partner yard.

Osborn and his wife Toni got away from the farm Sept. 20-22 to accept the award at the CAB Annual Conference in Sunriver, Ore. That was after a tractor pulling season when he and son Joel like to see what their somewhat modified John Deere models can do for fun.

When it comes to performance and cattle, these guys are all business. They know their pool of 1,200 related cows. They either own or used to own most of them, and all current owners are friends, neighbors and associates. They know the market is crazy, but they also know carcass data feedback still runs the engine of herd improvement and keeps it on track.

As long as Osborn Farms can feed these predictable cattle, no current quality records will be safe. Fair warning.

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Quality in the price equation

 

by Miranda Reiman

Feeders bid on cattle by penciling out the highest price they can pay and still maintain a shot at profit. Packers need a certain number of cattle harvested through their plants, bought at a particular price, to stay afloat.

That cost/sales formula follows beef as it continues toward consumers.

Distributors have buying equations down to a science. They must be responsive to supply and demand, because they want to make money but their customers must thrive, too.

“On the front side we’re very strategic,” says Ron Becker, president of Stock Yards, a business unit of U.S. Foodservice, Inc.. The Phoenix, Ariz., distributor watches historical trends, anticipating beef sales so it can forward contract with packers.

“We keep our salespeople on top of what the markets are doing,” he says. That lets them keep customers updated. “We’re constantly coaching on things, like in a tough economy it’s a bad time to lower your quality.”

Sticking with top-quality beef means diners are treated to something special and will make a return visit the next time they spend those shrinking discretionary dollars.

“We’re giving customers information so they don’t get too focused on trying to save five cents a pound by lowering quality, which could hurt their customer’s chances of making a return visit.,” Becker says.

Input cost and sales price only make up part of the profit picture. Any producer who has sold on the grid understands the value of yield, or cutability. That concept is vital to distributors.

“Our job is to merchandise as much of that product as we possibly can,” Becker says, but there is fat and other trim. Since a tenderloin is not a perfect cylinder, but tapers at both ends, for example, it takes strategy to get uniformity.

“I’m not taking the whole tenderloin and cutting it end to end in 4-oz. portions. That would produce very inconsistent steaks,” he says. Instead they’ll market the smaller filets together and the center-cut filets together.

“A 1,300-pound (lb.) animal will give you about 13 lb., or 1%, of tenderloins,” says Mark Polzer, Certified Angus Beef LLC (CAB) vice president. “After you trim it down, take the tail, silver skin and strap off, you’re left with roughly 6 lb. of actually steak product.”

Those are significant yield losses, and there are similar issues with strip loins and ribeyes.

“That’s where the price goes from 85 cents on the hoof, to $5 boneless in the bag to $14 portion-cut in a vacuum sealed package to the restaurant,” Polzer explains. For example, buying a 13-lb. strip loin at $5/lb. from the packer, a distributor then cuts it and ends up with 7.8 lb. Dividing that initial cost by 7.8 lb. shows an actual product cost of $8.33/lb.

“Then there is so much overhead and labor involved. As a result, you end up with a pretty substantial cost,” he says.

Restaurants pay for those services and the expertise in managing yield.

“They’re not paying twice as much because they’re going to throw away half the product,” Becker says, noting they are able to market the “leftovers” from those cuts, too.

“That’s critically important to our profitability,” he says. “Any good meat company is doing everything they can to maximize yield.”

Restaurants also consider cost and the marketplace when setting prices.

“First and foremost, we look at competitive constraints,” says Rick Cassara, owner of John Q’s, in Cleveland, Ohio. “I can’t sell a steak for $40 when the guy down the street is selling the same steak for $25. We’re trying to keep in tune with what the market will bear.”

The analysis includes target demographics and foodservice category, Polzer says, citing five main classes of fine-dining, casual-dining, family-casual, quick-casual, and quick-service restaurants.

“That dictates your pricing structure and to some extent what types of items you purchase,” he says.

John Q’s is in the upper tier, and the price, service and quality of ambiance then trends downward within each category.

The clientele at Cassara’s downtown, fine-dining establishment come from the hotels and businesses in the district.

“We start with the cost of the plate and what we need to mark it up to cover wages and other things,” he says, noting the aim is for an overall food cost of 36% to 37%. So if an item is $30 on the menu, the raw materials probably cost around $11. The vast majority of that input price comes from the center-of-the-plate item, or the protein.

“We add approximately $2 for the cost of other items, including bread and butter, the potato or vegetable and salad,” Cassara says.

That overall percentage is a balancing act, he notes, because beef items are typically the higher food cost.

“It would not be proportionate, or I’d end up running $50 entrees for steaks that just wouldn’t sell,” he says. To counter increases there, beverages are generally marked up to a greater degree.

Polzer encourages businesses to take higher food costs on beef, as Cassara does, because they can still make more gross profit. If a $3 chicken item is priced at $9 (or 3 times the cost), there is $6 gross profit. If a beef item is $5 and listed on the menu as $12, there’s less mark up but still more profit.

“That strategy would encourage sales of the higher profit item,” he says, “plus, satisfaction is generally greater with beef.”

Food cost tends to be highest at fine dining restaurants and lowest at “fast food joints” which typically run at 50%. “They’d have a higher volume go through and the overhead as percentage of sales would be significantly lower for a quick-service restaurant,” Polzer says.

Tile versus carpet, fiberglass booths versus upholstered chairs and hundreds of other details highlight the reason for variability.

“All of those factors contribute to the cost of that ambiance,” Polzer says.

No matter where it’s served, beef can be one of the highest value items and hardest to predict.

“We’re buying and selling fresh seafood every day,” Becker says. “That makes staying on the market fairly simple.  Beef, however, is much more complex because we age many of our products for more than 30 days. That means we have to be very strategic with today’s purchases in order to be on the market next month and provide our customers with attractive pricing

Restaurants have to be creative when prices are volatile.

“I can’t change my menu prices every time beef prices go up,” Cassara says. Instead John Q’s tries to feature less expensive items like short ribs or flat iron steaks.

“I’m worried about getting into an inflationary period where you have to evaluate it often,” he says. “I remember the late ’70s and early ’80s where inflation caused us to have to print menus every other month because of pricing.”

In the current economic environment, Cassara is holding prices but offering specials.

“We’re looking at things like a $30 fixed-price meal, where you get an appetizer, entrée with the starch or vegetable and then a dessert, and people seem to like that,” he says. “We’re trying to build loyalty.”

He is not backing away from quality, even though it costs more.

“I’ve never had a Certified Angus Beef ® steak come back because it was tough; maybe over-cooked or under cooked, but never because it was a bad product,” Cassara says. “That’s why we’ll use it and we’re willing to pay more for the ultra-consistency.”

Becker says Stock Yards has been able to maintain sales during this period and he credits a similar approach.

“We want to be known as the company that has fantastic product quality and consistent workmanship that our customers can count on,” he says.

That’s not so different from the quality focus among producers who want repeat buyers for their calves, or feedlots hoping to attract relatively higher bids from packers.